A trip summary from Celtic Colours

I returned home yesterday evening from my trip to Celtic Colours in Cape Breton with Mom.

I’m a little sad to be home. Happy to see Damien, but wish I could still be in Nova Scotia’s “north country”.

The fall colours are stunning in Cape Breton, even with the drought.

For the initiated, Nova Scotia is an aging province. I notice this all the time in the county where I live when I go to group functions or community events. A lot of grey and white hair.

The same was true at Celtic Colours, maybe even more so. There were some young people, musicians and audience members, but young people are conspicuous in their scarcity.

Given the demographics of the province, especially in rural areas like Cape Breton, I don’t find this terribly surprising. However, the festival attracts a lot of visitors, so technically younger people could come, but again the “come from aways” were also mostly aged.

This begs the question: Do I like old people music?

Cause I gotta tell you, I love this music. And gosh, I love this festival. Be still my contra/square and step dancing, fiddle & folk music loving heart.

A quick summary of the festival for those unfamiliar with Celtic Colours.

Celtic Colours is a 9 day Celtic music (traditional and folk) festival that runs concurrently with peak foliage season, and Canadian Thanksgiving weekend, on Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Island. It’s an international festival bringing musicians and audiences from around the world.

Shows and events happen all over the island (actually islands) for the festival duration, including 6 to 7 ticketed official concerts per day. These shows are put on in community halls, school gymnasiums, churches, performing arts centres, theatres, etc.

Judique Community Centre, Judique Populuation: 700

Events outside of professionally designated venues, which are most of them, are hosted by community, church, and school groups; volunteer fire departments; arts councils; and historical societies. (At some events, the ladies of the hosting community group serve free tea, coffee and baked goods after the show. At others, you can buy these for fundraising.)

Supper at the Red Shoe Pub

The Gaelic College, centrally located in St. Ann’s, provides accommodations for some of the musicians and also hosts the nightly Festival Club at the Great Hall of the Clans from 11pm to 3am. It’s the after hours party that is a show in itself. (The hall is a must-see, part museum, part hall, with an interior space set up to evoke a Scottish castle.)

In addition to these main headliner events there are hundreds of official and unofficial activities and happenings through the days - participatory events, learning opportunities, visual arts and heritage craft shows, and community meals.

And all of this is happening over the entire region, from tiny villages to larger centres (granted there are few of these in Cape Breton).

my marked up festival map

Festival go-ers can only take in a portion of the activities and shows because multiple things are happening at the same time, with venues up to 200km away from each other. Physics being what it is you just can’t be in two places at one time, though for this festival you sure wish you could be.

We were in Cape Breton for 4 days. We camped in 2 different places to take in shows and activities in those areas.

We attended 3 ticketed official shows and 1 ticketed community meal. (I purchased all these tickets back in July when I booked and planned our itinerary.) In addition to these trip anchors I went to Friday night’s Festival Club, we dropped into the daily open mic at Baddeck’s Yacht Club on Saturday afternoon, and went for supper at the Red Shoe Pub on Sunday which is known for its daily live music scene.

Everywhere you go is music, with plenty of chances to meet and connect with people, like shared tables at restaurants and community meals.

We also went for gorgeous, easy afternoon hikes at Usige Ban Falls and West Mabou Beach.

It was altogether fabulous and although it was a decent amount of time to give us a feel for the festival, see lots of great music, and to enjoy the beauty of Cape Breton in autumn, I wanted more and wasn’t looking forward to returning home as I usually am at the end of trips. The action is still going on and I want to be there for it.

But I am home now and I’m immensely grateful for the trip and delighted to have taken my first vacation in the trailer, which was such a cozy and perfect accommodation for us.

I have plans to return, to the festival and The Gaelic College.

At next year’s festival I hope to take in more of the participatory dance events - evening square dances, step dance workshops, and such. Which is the same kind of activity I want to do at The Gaelic College.

Having learned about their course offerings I intend to return to learn step dance. I’m not aiming for River Dance but I want to know how to dance a jig, reel, and strathspey (starting with learning the difference between them!)

I am a little sad to be back home knowing what I’m missing out on right now. But I’m also thankful for having had more exposure to the region, this is just my third trip to the island. I’m full up with good memories and autumn beauty, penciling in plans for a return to get started on learning how to step dance, and already dreaming about attending next year’s festival.

If you are interested in attending Celtic Colours, have questions about the festival or the region, I’m happy to talk all things Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and Celtic music in the comments. (From what little I know!)

PS. I’m taking a line dancing class this fall offered as part of the town’s parks and recreation programming. I have my second class tonight. Moving my feet to music will ease the disappointment somewhat of being home.